I often wonder how I could improve as a climber. I’ve been climbing VS for about 3 years now, with only the occasional forray onto anything harder. I’d love to be operating more in the HVS/E1 ball park, but for some reason I just can’t seem to get a foothold.

I don’t think my problem is ability. That’s to say I’m physically capable of climbing much harder. In fact I’m probably bouldering about as well as I ever have! Climbing E2 on top rope hasn’t been a problem for years, so why should leading HVS? Alas, I am fairly sure my issues lie elsewhere.

My head is what needs training, but how? How do you improve at reading routes, placing gear under strain, and let’s not forget that big one, “the fear”. That performance crippling fear of falling and hurting yourself, because you’re sure your gear won’t hold or you haven’t found a place for any yet.

I even know the answer to some extent; climb more, and push out of my comfort zone. Only by trying harder routes will I start to adapt and settle at a new level. But how to do that, when every part of me says to climb the HS I know I’ll “enjoy” rather than pull onto a potential epic?

Noone likes leaving their comfort zone (except a select group of nutters), and I’m no exception. More often than not these days I’d much rather have a “nice day out” than really push myself. But the only way to improve is to do just that. I know I’m capable, as long as I can control the fear and resist the urge to overgrip everything (and pump out) or stand around on a ledge for weeks and eventually back off.

Somehow I’ve got to get past that overwhelming sense of self preservation and push myself a bit… but how?