Ralph’s Place

I often wonder how I could improve as a climber. I’ve been climbing VS for about 3 years now, with only the occasional forray onto anything harder. I’d love to be operating more in the HVS/E1 ball park, but for some reason I just can’t seem to get a foothold.

I don’t think my problem is ability. That’s to say I’m physically capable of climbing much harder. In fact I’m probably bouldering about as well as I ever have! Climbing E2 on top rope hasn’t been a problem for years, so why should leading HVS? Alas, I am fairly sure my issues lie elsewhere.

My head is what needs training, but how? How do you improve at reading routes, placing gear under strain, and let’s not forget that big one, “the fear”. That performance crippling fear of falling and hurting yourself, because you’re sure your gear won’t hold or you haven’t found a place for any yet.

I even know the answer to some extent; climb more, and push out of my comfort zone. Only by trying harder routes will I start to adapt and settle at a new level. But how to do that, when every part of me says to climb the HS I know I’ll “enjoy” rather than pull onto a potential epic?

Noone likes leaving their comfort zone (except a select group of nutters), and I’m no exception. More often than not these days I’d much rather have a “nice day out” than really push myself. But the only way to improve is to do just that. I know I’m capable, as long as I can control the fear and resist the urge to overgrip everything (and pump out) or stand around on a ledge for weeks and eventually back off.

Somehow I’ve got to get past that overwhelming sense of self preservation and push myself a bit… but how?

I like this I need to get out and try Deliverance again soon…

UKC Article

Caroline and I managed to escape work and join the club for a day at Froggatt at the weekend. Unfortunately we couldn’t take up an offer of a weekend of Western exploration, but we were lucky enough to enjoy a gorgeous sunny afternoon in the East.

After a quick warm up on Trapeze Direct, we joined the queue for Chequer’s Buttress, which went with all the fun I’d been told to expect. The stretch out the arete was about as much as my arms would allow, and after a short rest on the jugs, the airy arete had me giggling by the top. Classic route!

Next came a failed (or rather, escaped) look at Two Sided Triangle - HVS (should be E1 if you ask me) 5b, just left of Three Pebble Slab, then I promised to put a rope down Sunset Slab for Caroline, as obviously neither of us would ever lead it… hmmm. 10 minutes later, I was grinning through the crux above a 15m groundfall, at least it’s “only” 4b

My turn to hold the rope now as Caroline breezed up Slab Recess, and then had even more fun on Trapeze (if swearing at your boyfriend counts as fun lol).

All in all, a really good day out, and the sun even put in an appearance for us mid October! Perfect.

James Brown padding up final run out moves on Three Pebble Slab, HVS 5a

On a day when we’d already ticked Wrinkled Wall (VS 4c), I though the climbing couldn’t get much better. I was wrong. Quien Sabe? (VS 4c) takes the awkward start to Browns Crack before moving left to good flakes, and finishing up a crack through a bulge. The rock’s perfect, the top crack committing and on the sunny day we had, it couldn’t get much better

If you’re good at jamming you’ll find the start fine. Unfortunately I’m not, so I found it awkward and hard! Once you move across though, there’s no more awkward… just a bit more hard and in an awesome position!

Go do it! I don’t know if it’s better than Browns Crack (HS - top 50), but it’s definitely worth the outing, and possibly the best VS on the crag?

Finally got round to sorting my photos from the lake district. Some are on facebook, some are on this site HERE

=^)